The History of American Indian Jewelry
An article by Lee Anderson
“Indian jewelry,” as we call it today, probably has
origins that predate the advent of the persons we describe as American
Indians or Native Americans. However, for the purpose of this paper,
we will consider prehistoric man as prehistoric Indian. Archeological
evidence shows us that stones (including turquoise), shells, and
fetishes predate the Christian (epoch). Turquoise found in Hohokam
excavations in southern Arizona dates back to 200 B.C. Likewise,
turquoise from central Mexico dates back to about 600–700
B.C.; from South America, ca. 900 B.C. Other beads are even earlier.
Since Indian jewelry and turquoise are so closely associated, this
paper will discuss both.
Turquoise, as a mineral deposit, is isolated to a rather limited
geographical area in the Southwestern U.S. Some — very little
— is found in Mexico, and there are some deposits in western
South America. We will concentrate on that found in the U.S.
Prehistoric Indians mined turquoise and turned it into jewelry —
primarily drilled beads and other hanging ornaments. However, archeological
findings include appliqué on shell and other rock, which
means that turquoise was probably used with wood for ear decoration
as well (the wood would have deteriorated). Extensive evidence of
prehistoric mining operations has been found in several areas: the
Cerillos and Burro Mountain regions of New Mexico, the Kingman and
Morenci regions of Arizona, and the Conejos area of Colorado. Turquoise
jewelry found in southern Mexico and in excavated mounds east of
the Mississippi has been identified as originating from New Mexico’s
Cerillos mining area. This article focuses on Southwestern mining
localities.
Turquoise has been dominant in jewelry finds; for example, several
thousand pieces were found in Chaco Canyon. However, it is not the
only important jewelry find. The spiny oyster shell Spondylus princeps
originates in only one area of the Western Hemisphere — off
the coast of Baja California. This shell has been found in abundance
in archeological excavations of the Anasazi, Mogollon, and Hohokam
of the desert Southwest. It has also been found in the same eastern
mound excavations where turquoise was found. These finds not only
prove early and prehistoric man’s interest in, and use of,
jewelry, but it reveals important economic information. It shows
the existence of trading in his lifestyle. It also provides a glimpse
into probable status levels of these people.
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One might argue that this historical context has little to do
with the development of Indian jewelry as we know it. However, as
some (the Hopi and Pueblo cultures of the Rio Grande) are indeed
descendants of the Anasazi and, as many believe, from the Mogollon
and Mimbres. So it seems to be a valid beginning of a historic tracing.
The Navajo, on the other hand, entered the area fairly recently
— some say as early as the 14th century; others, as late as
the early 16th. The Navajo, whenever they arrived, were undoubtedly
influenced by the existing Pueblo cultures and (later) the early
Spanish. As we will see, the Navajo were instrumental in spreading
this craft to other Southwest tribes.
The Navajo were nomadic within their Dinetah or homeland. They
were farmers only to the extent of planting a crop, leaving it to
the vagaries of the weather, and eventually returning to reap the
harvest, if any. They and their Apache cousins could be likened
to the early Mongols of the 12th and 13th centuries. They not only
raided but also took, kept, and developed whatever suited them.
Beaded necklaces (a symbol of prestige), decorated “ketoh”
(bow guards), and concha/concho likely originated from their most
frequent conquests, the Spanish and their Pueblo neighbors.
The Navajo were in constant contact — sometimes hostile,
sometimes friendly — with the Spanish as they populated the
Southwest from the late 16th century on. From these people, the
Indians developed a great appreciation for personal adornment. Some
of the early Spanish designs such as the Moorish inspired crescent
and the pomegranate blossom became key to Navajo jewelry design.
This is discussed later in the section on the origin of the Squash
Blossom necklace.
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In time, the Spanish became dominant in the area. Although raids
continued into the 19th century, the period was better described
as one of “suspicious-cautious coexistence.” It was
a 200-plus-year period of close association and sharing of the best
of several cultures. The Navajo wore ornaments they obtained from
those they conquered and from their trading partners. These ornaments
were made from German silver (a copper-nickel-zinc substance that
was bright and wore well), copper, brass and to a much lesser extent,
silver. They learned to appreciate and hold dear the symbols of
their prowess or their wealth. The early Navajos’ wearing
a cross or the crescent-shaped naja on a rawhide necklace was likely
an ornament of beauty and pride, not a reflection of their appreciation
for Christianity or for the Moorish influence on the Spanish. If
one person had such an ornament, others wanted one —if possible,
something even better. Thus the pendant cross evolved, as did the
naja, into a multitude of variations and blends. The simple thong
on which they were displayed gave way to stone, shell, silver, or
other metal beads.
The studies vary regarding the actual date that the Navajo began
making silver jewelry. The two best works are by John Adair; subsequent
research and writings are by Carl Rosnek and Joseph Stacy (see suggested
reading list). All seem to agree that Atsidi Sani (“Old Smith”)
was the accepted first Navajo silversmith. He learned the blacksmith
trade in the early 1850s and possibly even dabbled in silver in
the early 1860s.
After much warfare, the Navajo were captured by the U.S. Cavalry
and marched into captivity in 1864. Approximately 8000, including
Atsidi Sani, were sent to Fort Sumner in eastern New Mexico, where
they were weaned from a nomadic, warlike lifestyle and taught to
be farmers. The experiment failed and in 1868 they were returned
to the Four Corners area, the Dinetah. Although many accept 1868,
including the great Navajo leader of the time, Chee Dodge, as the
year Atsidi Sani learned silver making, some evidence suggests that
this is not wholly correct. Major Henry Wallen, the Commandant of
Fort Sumner in 1864, made the tantalizing comment, “Some of
them are quite clever as silversmiths.” Of course he may have
mistaken German silver for real silver. In any event, Atsidi Sani
wears the mantle as the first Navajo silversmith.
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The early Navajo silver work concentrated on concha (concho) belts,
bracelets, bow guards, tobacco flasks and necklaces. Rings, earrings,
pins, hair ornaments, buckles and bolos evolved from these. A full
line of silver jewelry existed throughout the reservation by the
1880s.
The earliest Navajo work consisted of hammered work with file
decoration. Turquoise, a very popular and much respected stone by
the Navajo, appeared in silver jewelry around 1880. It is important
to note that turquoise, as a jewelry item, had existed for centuries.
It had been used in combination with other stones, shells, and metals
long before 1880. However, the early Indians glued or otherwise
attached the turquoise to the stone, shell or metal. It is known
that Mexican silversmiths (plateros) toured the pueblos and Navajo
enclaves in the early to mid 1800s selling and trading silver jewelry
for Indian products. This is the likely origin of silver ornamentation
in the Indian possession prior to about 1860. It is fairly certain
that there was no indigenous Navajo or pueblo silver industry.
Early Navajo smiths used Mexican and U.S. coins for their silver.
Often, if they were given a special order from a trader, local rancher,
or businessman, they would receive silver in the form of candlesticks,
tea pots, etc. to melt for their work. The Navajo preferred to use
melted Mexican silver coins because they were easiest to work (.90275
fine). The next preferable source was whatever sterling silver was
available (.9025 fine). Least desirable, but most available and
durable, was silver from melted U.S. coins (.900 fine). In 1890,
the U.S. made it unlawful to melt or deface (by soldering on hooks,
eyes, jump rings or by “doming”) coins for beads. However,
this was difficult to enforce, and U.S. coinage continued to be
used in the developing Navajo silver industry. Now that there was
a demand for materials and tools, the reservation traders began
to stock many of the needed items. Although the Navajo were able
to make flux from native materials, the commercial flux was superior.
Likewise, commercial cutting, grinding, and fine polishing tools
were more desirable than homemade ones. This was the beginning of
a new economy involving the Indians, traders, and eastern suppliers.
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Very shortly after Atsidi Sani began silversmithing, the craft
spread across the area. He taught his sons and they taught others.
The craft appeared in Zuni around 1872. Atsidi Chon (Ugly Smith)
taught his close Zuni friend, Lanyade, the skills. The Zuni were
already skilled in metalworking, making items in copper, brass,
and iron. Research shows that a forge existed in Zuni in 1852. It
is reported (see Rosneck and Stacy) that Lanyade paid Atsidi Chon
“one good horse” for his instruction.
Lanyade learned the trade well. He began touring the various pueblos
selling his jewelry. While on Hopi First Mesa at Sichomovi, he taught
the first Hopi silversmith, Sikyatala, the skills. Since Lanyade
was taught by a Navajo and the Hopi were taught by Lanyade, all
the jewelry of the period was Navajo in style. As a side note, this
is why provenance (history of origin-ownership) is so important
for 19th century jewelry in properly identifying its origin. It’s
too easy to say that because it looks like Navajo work it is therefore
of Navajo origin.
During these early years, the use of solder was learned and developed,
as was the skills of making silver dies. Soldering permitted the
artistic and permanent joining of two or more metal pieces, resulting
in a multitude of design possibilities and the ability to set stones.
Die making was probably adopted from the many leather tooling dies
used by Spanish, Mexican, and later Indians, to work both leather
and tin.
As the years progressed, the styles that were basically of Navajo
origin were gradually modified by their pueblo students. For example,
the Zuni, since prehistoric times, were excellent lapidaries. These
skills slowly changed their work to the fine and channel inlay we
now associate with them. However, the Hopi change occurred a bit
more abruptly. In 1938, the Museum of Northern Arizona in Flagstaff,
Arizona, working with Hopi silversmiths Paul Saufkie and Fred Kabote,
began a program of developing a style that was exclusively Hopi.
The work was interrupted by World War II. Following the war, a government
grant helped a silversmith training program with the Hopi Guild.
The “overlay” technique they created involved the cutting
of designs in a heavy gauge silver sheet and then soldering this
to a solid silver sheet. The designs were usually adapted from the
pottery shards found in the Sikyatki Pueblo ruins of the 15th and
16th centuries. These pre-Hopi designs were mostly bird motifs.
The Hopi Guild also used kachina symbols, animal and clan motifs.
Today’s Indian silversmiths are, in many cases, also goldsmiths
and lapidaries. They cross tribal design boundaries with will and
abandon. No longer can you look at a piece and say, “It’s
Zuni style so it must be Zuni-made.” The artist of today may
incorporate into a single piece all the styles available, plus his
or her own innovation. Indian jewelry today transcends tribal styles.
References / Recommended Readings
John Adair, The Navajo and Pueblo Silversmiths, University
of Oklahoma Press, 1944.
Margery Bedinger, Indian Silver, Navajo and Pueblo Jewelers,
University of New Mexico Press, 1973.
M.G. Brown, Blue Gold, The Turquoise Story, Main Street
Press, Anaheim, CA, 1975.
Larry Frank, Indian Silver Jewelry of the Southwest, Schiffer
Publishing Ltd., Westchester, Pennsylvania, 1990.
The International Turquoise Annuals, vol. I and II, 1975
and 1976 (only two published) Impart Pub, Reno, NV. Note in vol.
I the article on pages 31–55 by D. Allen Penick, “Turquoise,
the Mineral that’s an Accident.”
Carl Rosnek and Joseph Stacy, Skystone and Silver, Prentice
Hall, Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey, 1976.
Joseph E. Poque, Ph.D, The Turquoise, A report to the
National Academy of Science, vol. XII, Second and Third Memoir,
1915. Reprinted in 1974 by Rio Grande Press, Inc., Glorieta, NM.
(This reprint includes a foreword and details on Southwestern turquoise
mines by Rex Arrowsmith and an excellent reference list. )
Stuart A. Northrop, Turquoise and Spanish Mines in New Mexico,
University of New Mexico, Press, 1975.
Stuart A. Northrop, David L. Newman, David H. Snow, Turquoise,
reprinted by General Printing and Paper Co., Topeka, KS. A reprint
from El Palacio, vol. 79, No. 1, 1973, Museum of New Mexico.
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Related Indian Jewelry Articles by Lee and Eric Anderson
• “The
Squash Blossom Necklace”
• “Turquoise
in Indian Jewelry”
• “How
the Quality of Turquoise Affects Its Use in Jewelry”
• “Stones
Used In Indian Jewelry”
• “The
History of Turquoise”
• “The
Origin and Occurrence of Turquoise”
• “The
Physical Properties of Turquoise”
• “Natural,
Stabilized, Treated, Fake, and Synthetic Turquoise”
• “Turquoise
Quality”
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